Refrigerator Not Cooling: Why Both Compartments Are Warm and What to Do About It
Your fridge isn’t cooling. Not just the fridge compartment — both. The freezer is warm too. The ice cream has melted, the frozen vegetables are thawing, and the milk is already spoiled. Everything in the fridge is heading toward room temperature, and adjusting the temperature control does nothing.
This is a different problem from the more common “freezer cold, fridge warm” fault. When both compartments are warm, the entire cooling system has stopped. Either the compressor isn’t running at all, or it’s running but not pumping refrigerant effectively. That’s the single diagnostic question that matters, and it splits the fault into two very different categories.
If the compressor is silent, the fault is electrical — a start relay, a capacitor, a thermostat, or a control board. These are external components, inexpensive, and replaceable. The compressor itself may be perfectly healthy, waiting for a signal that never arrives. If the compressor is running but nothing is getting cold, the fault is in the sealed system — a refrigerant leak, a restriction, or an internally failed compressor. That’s a professional repair costing $400 to $600, and on most domestic fridges over five years old it means replacement.
The guide walks through the full diagnostic sequence with that split as the organising principle. By the end of it, you’ll know with certainty which category your fridge falls into and what to do next.
Common Symptoms
Both compartments warm — freezer and fridge
Compressor completely silent, no hum, no vibration
Compressor clicks repeatedly but won’t start
Compressor hums for a few seconds then stops
Compressor runs continuously but nothing gets cold
Fridge runs constantly and never shuts off
Loud rattling or knocking from the compressor area
Fridge trips the circuit breaker when it tries to start
Error code on the display
Water pooling inside the fridge or on the floor
What Causes a Refrigerator to Stop Cooling Entirely
Failed compressor start relay — the most common cause of a completely dead fridge. A $10 to $20 part that plugs onto the compressor terminals.
Failed start or run capacitor — the compressor hums but can’t start spinning. A $10 to $25 part.
Failed overload protector — cuts power to the compressor too early, causing short cycling. A $5 to $10 part.
Faulty thermostat or control board — the compressor never receives the signal to run.
Failed condenser fan — the compressor overheats and trips its thermal protection.
Failed evaporator fan — cold air isn’t circulated through either compartment.
Defrost system failure — the evaporator coil ices over completely, blocking all airflow.
Refrigerant leak — the compressor runs but there’s nothing to pump. Not a DIY repair.
Failed compressor — the windings are open or shorted, or the pump has failed internally.
Inverter board failure — on modern inverter fridges, the compressor won’t run at all when the board fails.
What the Guide Covers
The Refrigerator Not Cooling guide is a complete 15-page diagnostic reference covering every fault in the cooling system:
Compressor start relay testing and replacement — the most common fault, with multimeter procedures and part matching by compressor model rather than fridge model
Start and run capacitor testing — including the safe discharge procedure and capacitance measurement
Condenser fan diagnosis — testing the fan motor, checking for obstructions, and cleaning the condenser coils
Evaporator fan diagnosis — accessing the fan behind the freezer panel and testing the motor windings
Defrost system testing — the heater, thermostat, timer, and control board, including safe defrosting of a frozen coil
Thermostat and control board checks — confirming the compressor is actually being told to run
Compressor winding tests — measuring resistance between Common, Start, and Run, and testing for shorts to ground
Inverter compressor and inverter board diagnosis — for modern variable-speed systems
Sealed system fault identification — recognising a refrigerant leak or internal compressor failure
Repair cost reference — typical parts and labour costs for every fault covered
Repair-versus-replace framework — with thresholds for each fault and worked examples
What You’ll Learn
You’ll learn the single most important diagnostic in fridge repair: whether the compressor is running. You’ll learn how to check it by sound, by feel, and by measuring the suction line temperature. That one answer determines everything that follows.
You’ll learn how to test a start relay by shaking it and measuring its resistance. You’ll learn how to test capacitors safely, how to measure compressor windings, and how to distinguish a compressor that won’t run from one that runs but doesn’t pump. You’ll learn how to check whether the condenser and evaporator fans are running and what to do if they’re not.
And you’ll learn the threshold that matters most: when a $15 relay or a $45 fan motor fixes the problem, and when a sealed system fault at $400 to $600 means replacement is the only sensible option.
Repair or Bin?
The calculation is sharp on this fault.
Start relay — $10 to $20. Always worth replacing.
Start or run capacitor — $10 to $25. Always worth replacing.
Overload protector — $5 to $10. Always worth replacing.
Condenser fan motor — $30 to $60. Worth replacing on any fridge under ten years old.
Evaporator fan motor — $30 to $60. Same calculation.
Defrost heater — $25 to $50. Worth replacing on any fridge under ten years old.
Thermostat — $15 to $30. Always worth replacing.
Control board — $60 to $200. Worth it on fridges under eight years old.
Inverter board — $100 to $250. Worth it on fridges under seven years old.
Sealed system repair — $400 to $600. Bin decision on fridges over five years old.
Compressor replacement — $500 to $800 including labour. Almost always a bin decision.
The guide gives you the threshold for every scenario, with worked examples across budget, mid-range, and premium fridges.
Frequently Asked Questions
Why is my fridge not cooling at all?
Either the compressor isn’t running, or it’s running but the sealed system has failed. Listen for the compressor — a hum or vibration means it’s running. If it’s silent, the fault is electrical and usually inexpensive. If it’s running but nothing gets cold, the fault is in the sealed system and usually means replacement.
Why does my fridge compressor click but not start?
A failed start relay. The relay attempts to start the compressor, fails, and the overload protector trips — that’s the click. A replacement relay costs $10 to $20 and takes five minutes to fit.
Why does my fridge run constantly and never get cold?
The compressor is running but the sealed system has lost its refrigerant, or the compressor has failed internally and isn’t pumping. Both are professional diagnoses, and both usually mean replacement on a fridge over five years old.
How do I know if my fridge compressor is running?
Put your hand on the compressor — the large black dome at the bottom rear of the fridge. You should feel vibration and hear a steady hum. If it’s silent and cold to the touch, it isn’t running. The suction line — the thicker copper tube — should also feel cold when the compressor runs.
Is it worth repairing a fridge that isn’t cooling?
If the fault is electrical — relay, capacitor, fan, thermostat — yes, almost always. If the fault is in the sealed system or the compressor itself, usually not on a fridge over five years old.
Get the Complete Refrigerator Not Cooling Guide
Stop guessing whether your fridge is finished. This guide tells you how to determine whether the compressor is running — and then walks through every possible fault with testing procedures and repair costs.
Refrigerator Not Cooling — $7.95
Know the fault. Fix it properly. Or know when it’s time for a new one.
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