Dryer Not Heating: Complete Diagnostic, Fixes & When to Repair or Bin It
A dryer that runs but doesn’t heat is one of the most frustrating appliance faults there is. The drum turns, the motor hums, the timer counts down — and an hour later your clothes are exactly as wet as when they went in. The machine is going through every motion of drying without actually drying anything.
The good news is that most no-heat faults are caused by one of a small number of components, and the most common fix costs under $15. This guide walks through every common cause in order of likelihood, tells you how to test each one, and gives you the repair-or-replace threshold for each.
If your dryer also won’t turn, is noisy, or takes multiple cycles to dry, see the full pillar guide: [Dryer Repair: Why It Won’t Heat, Won’t Turn, or Won’t Dry →]
Quick Checks Before You Open Anything
Before you reach for tools, run through these. They resolve a surprising number of “no heat” complaints and cost nothing.
Is the dryer set to a heat cycle? Some settings — air fluff, air dry, tumble only — deliberately run without heat.
Is the lint filter clogged? A clogged filter restricts airflow and causes overheating.
Is the vent duct blocked or kinked? Restricted airflow is the leading cause of thermal fuse failure.
Is the dryer plugged in properly? Electric dryers use a 240V supply — a partially inserted plug can run the motor but not the heating element.
Has the circuit breaker tripped? Electric dryers use a double-pole breaker, and if one pole trips, the motor may run but the heater won’t.
Is the door fully closed? A door that hasn’t latched can prevent the heating circuit from energising.
If none of those resolve it, work through the faults below.
1. Blown Thermal Fuse
Why it stops the heat: The thermal fuse is a one-time safety device on the heating circuit. If the dryer overheats — usually because of restricted airflow — the fuse blows and cuts power to the heating element permanently. The motor still runs, so the dryer appears to be working, but no heat is produced.
Symptoms:
Dryer runs but produces no heat
No error code on most models
The fault often follows a period of slow drying
A recent clogged lint filter or blocked vent
How to test it:
Unplug the dryer. Remove the rear or lower access panel. Locate the thermal fuse — a small white or silver component with two wires, mounted on the blower housing or heating element housing. Disconnect one wire. Set a multimeter to continuity mode. Touch the probes to the two terminals. A good fuse shows continuity. No continuity means it has blown.
Cost: Part $10–$15. Labour $120–$180.
Repair or Bin? Repair. But you must also clear the airflow restriction, or the new fuse will blow within days.
2. Failed Heating Element (Electric Dryers)
Why it stops the heat: The heating element is a coil of resistance wire that glows red-hot when current passes through it. Over years of use the wire oxidises, becomes brittle, and eventually fractures — creating an open circuit. This is the second most common no-heat fault on electric dryers.
Symptoms:
Dryer runs, drum turns, no heat at all
Element visibly broken or blistered
Element may glow briefly then go dark
Burning smell before failure
How to test it:
Unplug the dryer. Remove the access panel to reach the heating element housing. Disconnect one wire. Set a multimeter to resistance mode. A good element reads 20–50 ohms. An infinite reading means the element has burned out.
Cost: Part $40–$80. Labour $120–$180.
Repair or Bin? Repair. Elements are inexpensive and widely available.
3. Failed Cycling Thermostat
Why it stops the heat: The cycling thermostat regulates the drying temperature by switching the heating element on and off. If it fails open — stuck in the off position — the element never receives power and the dryer produces no heat.
Symptoms:
Dryer runs but no heat
Heat comes on then cuts out and never returns
Dryer overheats (if the thermostat fails closed)
How to test it:
Unplug the dryer. Locate the thermostat — a small disc-shaped component mounted on the blower housing or heating element housing. Disconnect the wires. Test with a multimeter on continuity mode. At room temperature, the contacts should be closed — continuity. If it shows no continuity at room temperature, it has failed open.
Cost: Part $15–$25. Labour $120–$180.
Repair or Bin? Repair. Cheap and quick to replace.
4. Blown High-Limit Thermostat
Why it stops the heat: The high-limit thermostat is a backup safety cut-out that opens at a higher temperature than the cycling thermostat. It trips if the dryer severely overheats — usually caused by a blocked vent. Some high-limit thermostats reset automatically when cool. Others are one-time devices that must be replaced.
Symptoms:
Dryer runs, no heat
The fault followed a blocked vent or clogged lint filter
Dryer cabinet feels unusually hot
Burning smell
How to test it:
Unplug the dryer. Locate the high-limit thermostat on the heating element housing. Disconnect the wires. Test for continuity at room temperature. No continuity means it has failed open and must be replaced.
Cost: Part $10–$20. Labour $120–$180.
Repair or Bin? Repair. But clear the airflow restriction first.
5. Failed Igniter (Gas Dryers)
Why it stops the heat: On gas dryers, the igniter is a ceramic component that glows white-hot to light the burner. It must draw a specific current — typically 3.2 to 3.6 amps — to open the gas safety valve. When the igniter weakens, it still glows but can’t draw enough current to open the valve. The burner never lights, and no heat is produced.
Symptoms:
Igniter glows but burner doesn’t light
Igniter glows repeatedly without ignition
No flame visible through the burner inspection port
Dryer runs but no heat
How to test it:
Unplug the dryer. Access the burner assembly. Observe the ignition sequence — the igniter should glow brightly, then the burner should light within 30 to 90 seconds. If the igniter glows but the burner doesn’t light, the igniter is the likely fault. Test it with a multimeter — a good igniter typically reads 50–400 ohms.
Cost: Part $30–$70. Labour $120–$180.
Repair or Bin? Repair. Igniters are a common, inexpensive part.
6. Failed Flame Sensor (Gas Dryers)
Why it stops the heat: The flame sensor verifies the burner has actually lit. If it fails, the control system shuts off the gas as a safety measure — the burner may light briefly then go out, or never light at all.
Symptoms:
Burner lights briefly then goes out
Igniter cycles on and off repeatedly
No sustained flame
No heat
How to test it:
Unplug the dryer. Locate the flame sensor — a small metal probe positioned in the burner flame path. Test for continuity at room temperature. A good sensor reads continuity. No continuity means it has failed.
Cost: Part $15–$30. Labour $120–$180.
Repair or Bin? Repair. Cheap part, straightforward replacement.
7. Failed Gas Valve Solenoids
Why it stops the heat: The gas valve solenoids are electromagnetic coils that open the gas valve when energised. If a solenoid fails, the valve won’t open and no gas reaches the burner — so no flame and no heat.
Symptoms:
Igniter glows but burner doesn’t light
No click from the gas valve
No flame
Igniter cycles without ignition
How to test it:
Unplug the dryer. Disconnect the solenoid wires from the gas valve. Test each solenoid with a multimeter — a good coil typically reads 500–1,500 ohms. An infinite reading means the coil has failed.
Cost: Part $80–$150 (valve assembly). Labour $150–$250 (requires a licensed gas fitter in most regions).
Repair or Bin? Borderline. On a dryer over 10 years old, the combined cost usually exceeds the value of the machine.
8. Blocked Vent or Airflow Restriction
Why it stops the heat: This isn’t a component failure — it’s the underlying cause of most thermal fuse, high-limit thermostat, and element failures. Restricted airflow causes the dryer to overheat, which triggers the safety devices that cut the heat. Fixing the component without fixing the airflow means the new part will fail within weeks.
Symptoms:
Dryer takes two or three cycles to dry
Cabinet feels unusually hot
Clothes smell scorched
Lint filter clogs quickly
Vent hood flap doesn’t open when the dryer runs
How to check it:
Pull the dryer away from the wall. Disconnect the vent duct from the back of the dryer. Inspect the duct interior — a duct that hasn’t been cleaned in years may be half-blocked with compacted lint. Check the exterior vent hood — the flap should open freely when the dryer runs. Clean the lint filter thoroughly, and wash it in warm soapy water if it’s coated with fabric softener residue.
Cost: $0 if you clean it yourself. $80–$150 for a professional vent cleaning.
Repair or Bin? Repair. Always do this first.
9. Failed Control Board
Why it stops the heat: The control board manages the heating circuit, cycling the element on and off to maintain temperature. If the relay that switches the element fails, no heat is produced. This is the most expensive common dryer fault.
Symptoms:
Dryer runs but no heat
Error codes displayed
Erratic behaviour — heat sometimes, not others
Multiple functions affected
How to test it:
This is difficult to test without specialist equipment. If every other component tests good, the control board is the remaining suspect. Inspect the board for visible damage — burnt components, bulging capacitors, or a burnt smell.
Cost: Part $100–$250. Labour $120–$180.
Repair or Bin? Bin on a dryer over seven years old. Control board replacement rarely makes financial sense.
Brand-Specific Dryer Faults
Different brands have different weak points on their dryers:
Fisher & Paykel — thermal fuse and heating element faults on vented models; sealed system faults on heat pump models
Samsung — heating element and thermistor faults; sealed system faults on heat pumps
LG — heating element and thermistor faults; moisture sensor faults on some models
Bosch — heating element faults on vented and condenser models; sealed system faults on heat pumps
Whirlpool — thermal fuse and heating element faults
Maytag — heating element and moisture sensor faults
GE — thermal fuse and heating element faults
Miele — heating circuit faults; sealed system faults on heat pump models
For brand-specific fault codes and diagnostic procedures, see our complete brand guides:
Repair vs Replace: The 50% Rule
If the repair costs more than 50% of the price of a new equivalent dryer, replace it.
Typical repair costs:
Cheap fixes (thermal fuse, thermostat, flame sensor): $10–$30
Medium fixes (heating element, igniter): $40–$80
Expensive fixes (gas valve, control board): $150–$350
Sealed system (heat pump dryers): $300–$500
New dryer cost: $400–$1,200
If your repair quote is over $250, replacement is usually the smarter call.
When to repair:
Dryer is under 7 years old
The fault is the thermal fuse, thermostat, element, or igniter
Repair cost is under $150
When to bin:
Dryer is over 10 years old
The fault is the control board or gas valve
Heat pump dryer with a sealed system fault
Repair cost is over $250
Multiple faults at once
What You Can Safely Do Yourself
Safe DIY repairs:
Clean the lint filter and vent duct
Test and replace the thermal fuse
Test and replace the cycling thermostat
Test and replace the high-limit thermostat
Test and replace the heating element
Test and replace the igniter and flame sensor (with the power off)
Test the gas valve solenoids (testing only — not replacement)
Technician required:
Gas valve replacement (licensed gas fitter)
Control board replacement on some models
Heat pump sealed system repair
Frequently Asked Questions
Why is my dryer running but not heating?
The most common cause is a blown thermal fuse, which cuts power to the heating circuit when the dryer overheats. It’s a $10 to $15 part, but you must also clear the airflow restriction that caused it to blow, or the new fuse will fail.
Why does my dryer take multiple cycles to dry?
Restricted airflow. A clogged lint filter or blocked vent duct prevents the hot air from reaching the clothes efficiently. Clean both, and drying times should return to normal.
My gas dryer’s igniter glows but the burner won’t light. Why?
The igniter has weakened. It still glows but can’t draw enough current to open the gas safety valve. Replacing the igniter usually resolves it.
How much does it cost to fix a dryer that won’t heat?
Between $10 and $350 depending on the fault. A thermal fuse costs $10 to $15. A heating element costs $40 to $80. A gas valve costs $80 to $150 plus labour. A control board costs $100 to $250.
Is it worth repairing a dryer that won’t heat?
Usually yes. The most common faults are inexpensive parts. The exceptions are control board failures and gas valve faults, which usually mean replacement on a dryer over seven years old.
Where to Go Next
This post has covered every common no-heat fault and the decision framework for repair or replacement. Depending on your situation, one of these is your next step:
If your dryer runs but won’t heat — the most common fault — our dedicated guide walks through every cause in order, with the full multimeter testing procedures, component replacement instructions, and the repair-or-replace calculation for your machine.
[Get the Dryer Not Heating guide — $7.95 →HERE
If your dryer’s drum isn’t turning at all, that’s a different fault — the motor or drive system rather than the heating circuit.
[Get the Dryer Drum Not Turning guide — $7.95 →HERE
If you own a specific brand and want fault codes and brand-specific diagnostics, our complete brand guides cover washers, dryers, and dishwashers in one reference.
If you want to keep reading on any laundry fault, browse the full collection:
[Browse All Laundry Appliance Guides →HERE
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