Washer Won’t Spin and Drain? Here’s What To Check First
Your washing machine finishes a cycle, but the load comes out soaking wet — and there’s still water sitting in the drum. It didn’t drain, and it didn’t spin. Maybe the cycle stopped partway through. Maybe it’s sitting there full of water and won’t do anything.
Here’s the thing most people get wrong: they treat “won’t drain” and “won’t spin” as two separate faults and start looking at the motor or the drum bearings. In reality, when both fail together, it’s almost always one fault — and it’s usually the drain side. Most machines won’t spin while there’s water in the drum. The spin cycle is locked out until the water is gone, so a blocked drain takes the spin down with it.
That’s good news, because the drain side is usually free or cheap to fix. The most common cause is a blocked filter or a kinked drain hose — neither of which costs anything to clear.
This page covers the most likely causes, the checks you can perform yourself, and when a repair makes sense versus when it’s time for a new machine. If you need the complete diagnostic sequence for either fault, the full guides are linked at the bottom.
Quick Diagnosis
Drum full of water, won’t spin: a drain fault. The spin cycle is locked out until the water clears.
Won’t drain and won’t spin, with a humming sound: the drain pump is running but blocked.
Won’t drain and won’t spin, with no sound: the drain pump has failed, or there’s no power to it.
Drains slowly, then won’t spin: a partial blockage in the filter or hose.
Drains fine but still won’t spin: a separate spin fault — lid switch, belt, or motor.
Stops mid-cycle with water in the drum: a drain fault triggering the cycle to abort.
Why A Drain Fault Stops The Spin
A washing machine runs its cycle in a fixed order: fill, wash, drain, rinse, drain, spin. The control board won’t start the spin until it confirms the water has drained. If the water level sensor still reads “full,” the machine either holds the cycle or aborts it.
So when the drain fails, the spin never gets a chance to run. The machine isn’t broken on the spin side — it’s refusing to spin on a full drum. Fix the drain, and the spin usually comes back on its own.
That’s why the checks below start with the drain. If the machine drains freely and still won’t spin, then you have a genuine spin fault, and that’s covered separately.
The Three Most Likely Causes
A Blocked Drain Filter
The drain filter catches lint, coins, hairpins, and debris before they reach the pump. When it clogs, water can’t get through, the drum stays full, and the spin is locked out.
This is the most common cause, and it’s free to fix.
What to check:
Unplug the machine and shut off the water.
Open the access panel at the bottom front (on front loaders) or behind the lower panel (on top loaders).
Place a shallow tray and towels underneath — there will be water.
Unscrew the filter slowly and let the water drain into the tray.
Pull the filter out and clear any debris.
Rinse it, screw it back in tight, and run a drain-and-spin cycle.
If the machine drains and spins normally, the filter was the cause. Fixed for free.
A Kinked or Blocked Drain Hose
The drain hose carries water from the pump to the standpipe or sink. If it’s kinked, crushed behind the machine, or blocked, the water can’t leave.
What to check:
Pull the machine out and inspect the hose along its full length.
Look for kinks, crushing, or a hose that’s been pushed hard against the wall.
Disconnect the hose at both ends and check for blockages — lint, debris, or a build-up of soap residue.
Straighten any kinks and flush the hose through.
Reconnect and run a test cycle.
A kinked hose is free to fix. A replacement hose is $10 to $30 if it’s split or perished.
A Failed Drain Pump
If the filter and hose are clear and the machine still won’t drain, the pump itself may have failed. A pump that’s jammed will hum without moving water. A pump that’s dead makes no sound at all.
What to check:
Unplug the machine and shut off the water.
Access the pump — usually behind the bottom front panel.
Check the pump impeller for a jammed object (a coin or bra wire is common).
If the impeller turns freely by hand but the pump doesn’t run, the pump motor has failed.
If the impeller won’t turn, clear the obstruction and test again.
A drain pump is $30 to $80 for the part, or $80 to $150 fitted.
What The Results Tell You
The machine drains and spins after clearing the filter: the filter was blocked. Fixed for free.
The machine drains and spins after straightening the hose: a kinked hose was the cause. Fixed for free.
The pump hums but won’t move water: the impeller is jammed. Clear it.
The pump makes no sound: the pump has failed, or there’s no power to it.
The machine drains freely but still won’t spin: a separate spin fault — check the lid switch, belt, or motor.
The machine drains slowly and then stops: a partial blockage. Recheck the filter and hose.
Is It Worth Repairing?
Almost always, yes — the drain side is the cheap side.
A blocked filter is free.
A kinked hose is free.
A replacement hose is $10 to $30.
A drain pump is $30 to $80 for the part, or $80 to $150 fitted.
Where the maths changes is if the fault turns out to be on the spin side instead — a failed motor or a worn drum bearing is $200 to $400 fitted. On a machine over eight years old, that repair often approaches the machine’s value.
The rule: fix the drain first, because it’s cheap and it’s the most likely cause. Only look at the spin side once you’ve confirmed the machine drains freely.
Safety Warning
Electrical risk. Washing machines run on mains voltage. Disconnect the power at the circuit breaker before removing any panel.
Water risk. The machine will hold water when the drain has failed. Shut off the water supply and have towels and a shallow tray ready before opening the filter.
Slip risk. Water on the floor is a slip hazard. Clean it up immediately.
Mechanical risk. The pump and drum are heavy. Support them when working underneath the machine.
FAQ
Why won’t my washer spin and drain at the same time?
They’re linked. The machine won’t spin while there’s water in the drum, so a drain fault locks out the spin. Fix the drain and the spin usually returns.
Why is my washing machine full of water and won’t spin?
A blocked filter, a kinked drain hose, or a failed drain pump. Check the filter first — it’s the most common cause and it’s free to clear.
Why does my washer drain slowly and then stop?
A partial blockage in the filter or hose. Clear it and run a test cycle.
Why won’t my washer drain or spin but it hums?
The drain pump is running but the impeller is jammed. Clear the obstruction.
Is it worth repairing a washer that won’t drain or spin?
Usually yes. The drain side is cheap to fix — often free. Only a failed motor or drum bearing makes the repair uneconomical.
Get The Complete Diagnosis
Need to determine exactly which component is stopping the drain and the spin?
The complete diagnostic guide takes you beyond the basic checks and walks through the drain fault step by step — filter, hose, pump, and water level sensor testing with expected results.
The complete guide includes:
Full drain fault diagnosis with expected readings
Filter, hose, and pump testing
Drain pump impeller inspection and clearing
Water level sensor and pressure switch testing
Control board drain signal testing
Brand-specific notes for LG, Whirlpool, and Samsung
Repair and replacement considerations
Repair-or-bin guidance
Washing Machine Not Draining Repair Guide
Complete diagnostic guide for washing machines that won’t drain.
What’s included:
Diagnosis for all drain fault patterns
Step-by-step testing procedures
Filter, hose, and pump testing
Water level sensor testing
Brand-specific notes
Required checks and tools
Repair-or-bin guidance
Download instantly
$7.95
Still Won’t Spin After The Drain Is Clear?
If the machine drains freely but the drum still won’t spin, the fault is on the spin side — lid switch, drive belt, motor, or drum bearings.
Washing Machine Not Spinning Repair Guide
Complete diagnostic guide for washing machines that won’t spin.
What’s included:
Diagnosis for all spin fault patterns
Lid switch and door lock testing
Drive belt and motor testing
Drum bearing and suspension checks
Brand-specific notes
Repair-or-bin guidance
Download instantly
$7.95
Looking for Brand-Specific Guides?
Our brand guides cover washers, dryers, and dishwashers from Fisher & Paykel, Samsung, LG, Bosch, Whirlpool, Maytag, GE, and Miele.
$12.95
Repair or Bin?
Before spending money on a repair, find out what is actually wrong with your appliance.
Repair or Bin gives you the information to diagnose the problem and make an informed repair-or-bin decision.
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