Repair or Replace Databases
Appliance Lifespan and Repair Cost Database
Expected life by brand. Repair cost by fault.
Category averages tell you how long a dishwasher lasts. They don’t tell you how long your dishwasher lasts. A twelve-year-old Miele and a twelve-year-old Frigidaire are the same age and completely different decisions — one has years left, the other is past its expected life.
These two databases replace the averages with the numbers you actually need. Use them to work out what percentage of your machine’s life has been used, and what the fault you’re facing actually costs — then apply the five rules.
Both are in US dollars, both are ranges, and both should be read with the note on sources at the end.
The decision repair, by category
In almost every category, there’s exactly one repair that costs more than half a new unit — and everything else is cheap. Find your category below, and you’ll usually know the answer before you’ve read anything else.
| Category | Typical replacement | The repair that decides it | Usual verdict |
|---|---|---|---|
| Dishwasher | $400–$1,500 | Control board ($180–$585) | Repair everything else |
| Refrigerator | $700–$2,500 | Compressor / sealed system ($400–$1,000) | Bin past ten years |
| Washing machine | $500–$1,500 | Drum bearings ($300–$600) | Bin past eight years |
| Dryer | $400–$1,200 | Motor ($250–$450) | Bin past eight years |
| Oven / range | $500–$2,000 | Control board ($250–$500) | Repair well past ten years |
| Microwave | $60–$500 | Magnetron ($150–$300) | Usually bin |
| Television | $300–$2,000 | Panel ($400–$1,500) | Always bin |
| Laptop | $400–$2,000 | Motherboard ($300–$600) | Bin past five years |
| Air conditioner | $1,500–$5,000 | Compressor ($1,200–$2,500) | Borderline past twelve years |
| Water heater | $800–$2,500 | Leaking tank (terminal) | Bin when it leaks |
That table is the short version of everything below. The rest of this page gives you the detail — lifespan by brand, and costs by fault.

How to read the lifespan database
Every figure is a range, and the range is the point.
A dishwasher doesn’t last ten years. Dishwashers last somewhere between eight and fourteen, depending on the brand, the water, how often it runs, and the luck. The brand table tells you which end of that range you’re likely to be at; the notes tell you what pushes it either way.
The columns
- Conservative — the age at which the machine is genuinely near the end. Plan for replacement from here.
- Typical — the median. Most machines of this type and brand reach this age.
- Optimistic — the age a well-maintained unit can reach. Not the planning figure, but not fantasy either.
How to use it
Work out your machine’s age as a percentage of the typical figure. That percentage is what the Lifespan Rule uses.
- Under 50% — repair freely.
- 50–75% — repair carefully.
- Above 75% — the repair needs a reason.
- Past 100% — you’re in bonus time.
The Lifespan Database
Dishwashers
Most dishwashers last 9–13 years. Brand matters more here than the category average suggests — a Miele will typically outlast a Frigidaire by five years or more.
| Brand | Conservative | Typical | Optimistic | What limits it |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Miele | 12 | 17 | 20+ | 20-year design life; lowest failure rate in reliability surveys |
| Sub-Zero / high-end built-in | 12 | 17 | 20 | Built-in units are serviceable and parts are stocked long-term |
| Bosch | 9 | 12 | 16 | Bosch self-reports 6–16 years; owner reports of 18–20 are common on premium series |
| KitchenAid | 9 | 12 | 15 | Premium tier, longer service life than parent Whirlpool |
| Thermador / Gaggenau | 10 | 13 | 16 | Built-in premium; parts availability is the limit, not the design |
| GE | 8 | 11 | 14 | Mid-range; parts widely stocked and cheap, which extends practical life |
| Whirlpool | 8 | 11 | 14 | Inexpensive parts keep repair sensible past year ten |
| Maytag | 8 | 11 | 13 | Similar to Whirlpool; commercial-line units last longer |
| Amana | 7 | 10 | 12 | Budget tier of the Whirlpool family |
| LG | 7 | 10 | 13 | Electronics-heavy; boards and touch panels are the weak point after year eight |
| Samsung | 7 | 10 | 13 | Same as LG — board failures are the constraint |
| Frigidaire | 7 | 9 | 12 | Shorter end of the mid-range; tub and door assemblies less serviceable |
| Ikea (Whirlpool-built) | 8 | 11 | 14 | Mechanically a Whirlpool; parts via Ikea can be slower |
| Budget store brands | 6 | 8 | 11 | Designed to a price; expect the conservative figure |
What moves the number up or down
Soft water, once-a-day use, a clean filter, and a descaled element push you to the optimistic end. Hard water run twice a day with no maintenance will land you at the conservative figure regardless of brand.
Brand notes
The board failures on LG and Samsung models are the reason their typical figure is three years below Bosch’s. If you own one past year eight, expect the control board question to arrive earlier than it would on a European machine.
Refrigerators
Most refrigerators last 10–18 years. The sealed system is the limit, and the brand determines when it fails.
| Brand | Conservative | Typical | Optimistic | What limits it |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Sub-Zero | 15 | 20 | 25+ | Built-in, serviceable, parts stocked for decades |
| Miele | 13 | 17 | 20 | Lowest failure rate in the category |
| Thermador / Gaggenau | 12 | 16 | 20 | Premium built-in |
| Bosch | 11 | 14 | 17 | Solid mid-premium; compressor is the deciding component |
| KitchenAid | 11 | 14 | 17 | Premium tier of Whirlpool |
| GE Profile | 10 | 14 | 17 | Above the base GE line |
| GE | 10 | 13 | 16 | Parts widely available, repairs sensible |
| Whirlpool | 10 | 13 | 16 | Same |
| Maytag | 10 | 13 | 15 | Same |
| LG | 8 | 11 | 14 | Linear compressor failures on 2014–2021 units were the subject of a US class action |
| Samsung | 8 | 11 | 14 | Same compressor issue; ice maker faults are also disproportionately common |
| Frigidaire | 8 | 11 | 14 | Shorter mid-range life; sealed system fails earlier |
| Budget / store brands | 7 | 10 | 12 | Designed to a price |
What moves the number up or down
Clearance for airflow behind and around the unit, coils cleaned annually, and a stable ambient temperature push you towards the optimistic end. A fridge jammed into a tight cabinet with no airflow will fail earlier regardless of brand.
Brand notes
If you own an LG or Samsung unit and the compressor has failed, check whether it falls under the class action settlement or an extended warranty before pricing a replacement. It changes the maths entirely.
Washing machines
Most washing machines last 10–13 years. Top-loaders outlast front-loaders, and drum bearings are what ends a front-loader’s life.
| Type / brand | Conservative | Typical | Optimistic | What limits it |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Miele front-loader | 12 | 16 | 20 | 20-year design life |
| Bosch front-loader | 10 | 13 | 16 | Built for service; bearings replaceable |
| Speed Queen top-loader | 12 | 17 | 25 | Commercial-grade; the exception in the category |
| Whirlpool top-loader (basic) | 10 | 13 | 16 | Simplest design, fewest failure points |
| Maytag top-loader | 10 | 13 | 16 | Same |
| GE top-loader | 9 | 12 | 15 | Mid-range |
| Whirlpool / Maytag HE top-loader | 8 | 11 | 14 | Electronics add failure modes |
| LG front-loader | 7 | 10 | 13 | Drum bearing failures more common; sealed tub makes repair expensive |
| Samsung front-loader | 7 | 10 | 13 | Same |
| GE front-loader | 7 | 10 | 13 | Mid-range front-loader |
| Frigidaire | 7 | 10 | 13 | Shorter end of the range |
| Budget top-loader | 7 | 10 | 13 | Fewer features, but also cheaper components |
What moves the number up or down
A level floor, an unloaded drum between cycles, and a clean filter push you up. Front-loaders need the door left ajar after use and the seal cleaned regularly — a neglected seal lets water into the drum bearing, which is the expensive failure.
Dryers
Most dryers last 10–15 years. Simple machines with cheap parts — the vent is what kills them.
| Type / brand | Conservative | Typical | Optimistic | What limits it |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Speed Queen | 12 | 18 | 25 | Commercial-grade |
| Miele heat pump | 10 | 14 | 18 | Built for service |
| Whirlpool / Maytag vented | 10 | 13 | 16 | Simple machines, cheap parts |
| GE vented | 10 | 13 | 16 | Same |
| Bosch condenser | 10 | 13 | 16 | Heat exchanger adds a failure mode |
| LG vented | 9 | 12 | 15 | Control board is the weak point |
| Samsung vented | 9 | 12 | 15 | Same |
| LG / Samsung heat pump | 7 | 10 | 13 | Sealed system; expensive when it fails |
| Budget vented | 8 | 11 | 14 | Simple but cheaply built |
What moves the number up or down
A short, rigid vent run with a clean exterior hood. The single biggest killer of dryers is a blocked vent — it overheats the thermal fuse, then the element, then the machine.
Ovens and ranges
Most ovens last 13–18 years. The chassis outlasts the components, which is why they’re worth repairing past ten years.
| Type / brand | Conservative | Typical | Optimistic | What limits it |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Wolf / Viking / Thermador | 15 | 20 | 25+ | Built-in premium; designed for decades |
| Miele | 14 | 18 | 22 | 20-year design life |
| Bosch | 13 | 16 | 19 | Mid-premium |
| KitchenAid | 13 | 16 | 19 | Premium tier |
| GE Profile | 12 | 15 | 18 | Above base GE |
| GE | 12 | 15 | 18 | Mid-range; elements and igniters fail before the chassis |
| Whirlpool | 12 | 15 | 18 | Same |
| Maytag | 12 | 15 | 18 | Same |
| LG / Samsung | 11 | 14 | 17 | Electronics-heavy; boards are the weak point |
| Frigidaire | 11 | 14 | 17 | Shorter mid-range |
| Budget ranges | 10 | 13 | 16 | Designed to a price |
What moves the number up or down
Gas ovens generally outlast electric because the chassis doesn’t carry the element heat cycle. The components that fail — igniters, elements, thermostats — are all cheap, which is why ovens are worth repairing well past ten years.
Microwaves
Most microwaves last 7–10 years. The magnetron is the limit, and it’s rarely economic to replace.
| Type / brand | Conservative | Typical | Optimistic | What limits it |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Miele / premium built-in | 10 | 14 | 18 | Built-in units are better built and more expensive to replace |
| Panasonic inverter | 8 | 11 | 14 | Magnetron is the limit |
| Sharp | 7 | 10 | 13 | Same |
| LG / Samsung | 7 | 9 | 12 | Electronics-heavy |
| GE / Whirlpool / Maytag | 7 | 9 | 12 | Standard |
| Budget countertop | 5 | 7 | 10 | Designed to be replaced, not repaired |
What moves the number up or down
The magnetron, and it’s usually what ends the machine’s life. The high-voltage circuit isn’t DIY-safe, so a magnetron failure is a professional repair — which on a countertop unit is almost never economic.
Televisions
Most TVs last 7–12 years. The panel is the limit — everything upstream of it is repairable.
| Type / brand | Conservative | Typical | Optimistic | What limits it |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Sony (premium LCD) | 8 | 11 | 14 | Panel and backlight |
| LG OLED | 6 | 9 | 12 | OLED panel degradation — brightness decline, then uniformity faults |
| Sony OLED | 6 | 9 | 12 | Same panel constraint |
| Samsung QLED | 7 | 10 | 13 | Backlight and board |
| LG LED / NanoCell | 7 | 10 | 13 | Backlight is the limit |
| Samsung LED | 7 | 10 | 13 | Same |
| Hisense / TCL | 6 | 8 | 11 | Budget tier; backlight fails earlier |
| Budget brands | 5 | 7 | 10 | Designed to a price |
What moves the number up or down
The panel. Everything upstream of it — boards, backlight strips, power supplies — is repairable at $30–$200. The panel itself costs as much as a new set, which is why the fault type decides the outcome before cost is even considered.
Brand notes
OLED brightness decline is gradual and normal, but panel uniformity faults are the terminal ones. Check the warranty before assuming a fault is unrepairable — LG’s OLED panel coverage has historically extended beyond the standard TV warranty in some regions.
Laptops and computers
Most laptops last 4–7 years. The battery and hinge decide it, not the CPU.
| Type / brand | Conservative | Typical | Optimistic | What limits it |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| MacBook Pro | 6 | 8 | 10 | Battery, then OS support |
| ThinkPad (T/X series) | 6 | 8 | 11 | Built for service; parts widely available |
| Dell Latitude / XPS | 5 | 7 | 9 | Serviceable; battery is the limit |
| HP EliteBook | 5 | 7 | 9 | Business line lasts longer than consumer |
| Framework | 6 | 9 | 12 | Designed for modular upgrade |
| Consumer laptops (any brand) | 4 | 5 | 7 | Battery and hinge decide it, not the CPU |
| Desktop PC | 6 | 9 | 12 | Upgradeable; case and PSU outlast everything |
| Custom-built desktop | 7 | 10 | 14 | Components replaceable individually |
What moves the number up or down
The battery first, then the hinge, then OS support. A laptop with a swollen battery, a broken hinge, and an unsupported OS is three separate failures. The motherboard is the repair that decides the outcome — same role as the dishwasher control board.
Phones and tablets
Most phones last 3–5 years. OS support, not hardware, is usually what ends their useful life.
| Type | Conservative | Typical | Optimistic | What limits it |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| iPhone (current) | 4 | 5 | 7 | Battery, then iOS support |
| iPhone (older models) | 3 | 4 | 6 | Support drops faster than hardware fails |
| Samsung Galaxy S series | 3 | 4 | 6 | Battery, then security updates |
| Samsung Galaxy A series | 2 | 3 | 5 | Shorter update commitment |
| Google Pixel | 4 | 5 | 7 | Longest Android update commitment |
| iPad | 4 | 6 | 8 | Battery and iPadOS support |
| Android tablets (mid-range) | 3 | 4 | 6 | Shorter update commitment |
What moves the number up or down
OS support more than hardware. A phone that no longer receives security updates is a phone that shouldn’t be used for banking, however well the battery performs. The lifespan figures already reflect this.
Home systems
Home systems vary widely. Water heaters are limited by tank corrosion; AC by the compressor; solar by the inverter.
| System | Conservative | Typical | Optimistic | What limits it |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Tank water heater (gas) | 8 | 10 | 12 | Tank corrosion — terminal when it leaks |
| Tank water heater (electric) | 8 | 11 | 14 | Same |
| Tankless water heater | 15 | 20 | 25 | Scale build-up; descaling extends life |
| Air conditioner (central) | 10 | 14 | 17 | Compressor; refrigerant type matters |
| Air conditioner (window) | 7 | 10 | 12 | Compressor or sealed system |
| Heat pump | 12 | 15 | 20 | Compressor and refrigerant type |
| Solar inverter (string) | 10 | 13 | 15 | First major component to fail on a solar system |
| Solar inverter (microinverter) | 15 | 20 | 25 | Longer than string inverters |
| Garage door opener | 10 | 13 | 15 | Motor and gear wear |
What moves the number up or down
For water heaters, tank corrosion — a leaking tank is terminal and there’s no repair. For AC and heat pumps, the compressor. For solar, the inverter is the scheduled replacement, not an unexpected failure.
Tools and outdoor equipment
Most tools last 5–10 years. The battery platform is usually what decides it.
| Tool | Conservative | Typical | Optimistic | What limits it |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Cordless drill (consumer) | 4 | 6 | 9 | Battery is the limit, then motor brushes |
| Cordless drill (pro, e.g. Makita/Milwaukee) | 6 | 10 | 14 | Battery platform outlasts the tool |
| Chainsaw (consumer) | 5 | 7 | 10 | Two-stroke wear |
| Chainsaw (pro) | 8 | 12 | 18 | Built for daily use |
| Lawn mower (petrol) | 8 | 11 | 15 | Engine, then deck rust |
| Lawn mower (electric) | 7 | 10 | 13 | Motor and battery |
| Pressure washer | 5 | 8 | 11 | Pump is the weak point |
| Leaf blower (electric) | 5 | 8 | 11 | Motor |
| Cordless vacuum | 4 | 6 | 8 | Battery, then motor |
| Robot vacuum | 4 | 6 | 8 | Battery, then sensors and motors |
What moves the number up or down
The battery platform. A cordless tool with a dead battery isn’t a repair decision — it’s a battery purchase, and whether it’s worth it depends on how many other tools you own on that platform.
How to read the repair cost database
The repair cost database is fault-level, not category-level. That’s the difference between “a dishwasher repair costs $200” and “a dishwasher drain pump costs $280 installed, which is 31% of a $900 replacement, which passes the cost test.”
The columns
- DIY part — the cost of the part alone, if you can do the work yourself
- Installed — the cost with a professional doing the work, including the call-out and labour
- 50% test — whether the installed cost passes the 50% Rule against a typical replacement
The decision repair
Every table names the decision repair — the one fault in that category that usually exceeds the 50% line. Identify whether you’re facing it and the decision is usually made for you.
If you’re not facing the decision repair, you’re almost certainly looking at a repair.
The Repair Cost Database
Dishwashers
Typical replacement: $400–$1,500 · The decision repair: the control board
| Fault | DIY part | Installed | 50% test vs $900 |
|---|---|---|---|
| Blocked filter or drain hose | $0–$30 | $0–$400 | Passes easily |
| Failed drain pump | $20–$150 | $150–$450 | Passes |
| Worn door seal | $10–$90 | $50–$300 | Passes |
| Failed heating element | $25–$75 | $150–$350 | Passes |
| Failed thermostat | $20–$50 | $100–$200 | Passes |
| Failed high-limit thermostat | $10–$25 | $80–$180 | Passes |
| Spray arm or filter assembly | $15–$60 | $100–$200 | Passes |
| Failed detergent dispenser | $20–$60 | $100–$200 | Passes |
| Failed control board | $60–$230 | $180–$585 | Borderline to fail |
| Cracked tub or interior | — | $300–$600+ | Fails |
The decision repair
The control board. At $180–$585 against a $900 replacement, that’s 20–65%. On a budget machine it fails decisively; on a premium machine under five years old it can be worth doing. Everything else passes comfortably.
Refrigerators
Typical replacement: $700–$2,500 · The decision repair: the sealed system
| Fault | DIY part | Installed | 50% test vs $1,100 |
|---|---|---|---|
| Blocked defrost drain | $0 | $0–$200 | Passes easily |
| Worn door seal | $30–$80 | $100–$300 | Passes |
| Failed thermistor or sensor | $15–$50 | $100–$250 | Passes |
| Failed evaporator fan | $30–$90 | $150–$350 | Passes |
| Failed defrost heater or timer | $30–$80 | $150–$350 | Passes |
| Failed ice maker | $50–$150 | $150–$350 | Passes |
| Failed condenser fan | $40–$100 | $150–$350 | Passes |
| Failed water inlet valve | $20–$60 | $120–$250 | Passes |
| Failed inverter board | $100–$250 | $250–$500 | Borderline |
| Failed compressor (sealed system) | $200–$450 | $400–$900 | Fails |
| Refrigerant leak / sealed system | — | $400–$1,000 | Fails |
| Cracked interior liner | — | $400–$800 | Borderline to fail |
The decision repair
The sealed system. At $400–$1,000 against a $1,100 replacement, that’s 36–91%, and the labour risk makes it worse. This is the fault that ends a fridge’s life. Everything else passes.
Washing machines
Typical replacement: $500–$1,500 · The decision repair: drum bearings
| Fault | DIY part | Installed | 50% test vs $900 |
|---|---|---|---|
| Blocked filter or drain hose | $0–$30 | $0–$200 | Passes easily |
| Failed drain pump | $30–$80 | $150–$300 | Passes |
| Worn door seal (front-loader) | $30–$80 | $150–$300 | Passes |
| Failed lid switch or door lock | $15–$50 | $100–$200 | Passes |
| Worn drive belt | $10–$30 | $120–$200 | Passes |
| Failed water inlet valve | $20–$60 | $120–$250 | Passes |
| Failed suspension rods or springs | $30–$80 | $150–$300 | Passes |
| Failed control board | $100–$250 | $250–$500 | Borderline |
| Worn drum bearings | $30–$80 | $300–$600 | Fails past year eight |
| Failed motor | $100–$200 | $250–$450 | Borderline |
| Cracked drum or outer tub | — | $400–$700 | Fails |
The decision repair
Drum bearings. The part is cheap but the labour dominates — the drum has to come out, and on many front-loaders the bearings are pressed into a sealed tub. At $300–$600 against $900, that’s 33–67%. Under six years old on a premium machine it’s worth doing; past eight years it usually isn’t.
Dryers
Typical replacement: $400–$1,200 · The decision repair: the motor, or the sealed system on a heat pump
| Fault | DIY part | Installed | 50% test vs $700 |
|---|---|---|---|
| Blocked vent or lint filter | $0 | $0–$150 | Passes easily |
| Blown thermal fuse | $10–$15 | $120–$180 | Passes |
| Failed heating element | $40–$80 | $150–$300 | Passes |
| Failed thermostat | $15–$40 | $120–$250 | Passes |
| Broken drive belt | $10–$25 | $120–$200 | Passes |
| Worn drum rollers | $10–$25 each | $150–$300 | Passes |
| Failed idler pulley | $15–$30 | $120–$200 | Passes |
| Failed door switch | $15–$40 | $100–$200 | Passes |
| Failed gas igniter | $30–$70 | $150–$300 | Passes |
| Failed control board | $100–$250 | $250–$500 | Borderline |
| Failed motor | $100–$200 | $250–$450 | Borderline past year eight |
| Heat pump sealed system | — | $400–$800 | Fails |
The decision repair
The motor on a vented dryer, the sealed system on a heat pump. On a basic vented dryer worth $500, a $350 motor repair at year ten is a bin. Heat pump dryers are the exception to the whole category — a sealed system failure out of warranty is usually the end.
Ovens and ranges
Typical replacement: $500–$2,000 · The decision repair: the control board
| Fault | DIY part | Installed | 50% test vs $900 |
|---|---|---|---|
| Failed bake or grill element (electric) | $20–$60 | $100–$250 | Passes |
| Failed igniter (gas) | $30–$80 | $150–$300 | Passes |
| Failed thermostat or sensor | $20–$60 | $120–$250 | Passes |
| Blown thermal fuse | $5–$20 | $100–$200 | Passes |
| Failed door hinge or spring | $20–$60 | $100–$250 | Passes |
| Failed spark module | $40–$80 | $150–$300 | Passes |
| Failed control board | $100–$250 | $250–$500 | Borderline |
| Failed gas valve | $50–$150 | $200–$400 | Borderline |
| Cracked hob or oven interior | — | $400–$800 | Fails |
The decision repair
The control board, same as the dishwasher. Everything else passes comfortably — which is why ovens are worth repairing well past ten years.
Televisions
Typical replacement: $300–$2,000 · The decision repair: the panel
| Fault | DIY part | Installed | 50% test vs $800 |
|---|---|---|---|
| Failed HDMI board or input | $40–$90 | $150–$300 | Passes |
| Failed T-Con board | $30–$80 | $100–$250 | Passes |
| Failed backlight strips | $25–$80 | $250–$450 | Passes on premium, fails on budget |
| Failed power supply | $40–$90 | $150–$300 | Passes |
| Failed main board | $60–$150 | $180–$350 | Passes |
| Failed Wi-Fi module | $30–$70 | $120–$250 | Passes |
| Failed panel | — | $400–$1,500 | Fails |
The decision repair
The panel. It always costs nearly as much as a new set, which is why the fault type alone decides it. Everything upstream of the panel passes the 50% test on almost any TV.
Laptops
Typical replacement: $400–$2,000 · The decision repair: the motherboard
| Fault | DIY part | Installed | 50% test vs $900 |
|---|---|---|---|
| Failed battery | $40–$150 | $120–$250 | Passes |
| Failed charging port | $15–$40 | $100–$200 | Passes |
| Cracked screen | $80–$300 | $200–$450 | Passes |
| Failed keyboard | $30–$120 | $120–$250 | Passes |
| Failed fan / overheating | $20–$60 | $100–$200 | Passes |
| Failed hinge | $30–$100 | $150–$300 | Passes |
| Failed storage drive | $40–$200 | $150–$300 | Passes |
| Failed motherboard | $150–$400 | $300–$600 | Borderline to fail |
The decision repair
The motherboard — and on a laptop past five years it usually fails, because the lifespan rule rejects it independently. The battery and screen are the two repairs that most often justify themselves.
Air conditioners and heat pumps
Typical replacement: $1,500–$5,000 · The decision repair: the compressor, or the refrigerant type
| Fault | DIY part | Installed | 50% test vs $3,000 |
|---|---|---|---|
| Failed capacitor | $10–$40 | $150–$300 | Passes |
| Failed fan motor | $80–$250 | $300–$600 | Passes |
| Failed control board | $150–$400 | $400–$800 | Passes |
| Blocked condensate drain | $0 | $100–$250 | Passes |
| Refrigerant recharge (R410A/R32) | — | $200–$600 | Passes |
| Failed compressor | $400–$900 | $1,200–$2,500 | Borderline to fail |
| Refrigerant leak (R22 system) | — | $800–$2,000 | Fails — phased out |
| Failed evaporator coil | $300–$700 | $800–$1,800 | Borderline |
The decision repair
The compressor, and the refrigerant type. An R22 system with a leak is a replacement regardless of cost, because the refrigerant is phased out and the repair cost will keep rising.
Water heaters
Typical replacement: $800–$2,500 · The decision repair: a leaking tank
| Fault | DIY part | Installed | 50% test vs $1,200 |
|---|---|---|---|
| Failed heating element (electric) | $20–$60 | $150–$300 | Passes |
| Failed thermostat | $20–$60 | $150–$300 | Passes |
| Failed thermocouple (gas) | $15–$40 | $120–$250 | Passes |
| Failed pilot assembly (gas) | $30–$80 | $150–$300 | Passes |
| Failed pressure relief valve | $15–$50 | $120–$250 | Passes |
| Leaking tank | — | Terminal | Fails — no repair |
The decision repair
A leaking tank. There is no repair — the tank is the water heater. Everything else passes comfortably.
Using the databases together
The two tables do different jobs, and the framework needs both.
Example 1: Nine-year-old Bosch, failed drain pump
- Lifespan: Bosch typical is 12 years. Nine years used is 75% — at the threshold where the repair needs a reason.
- Repair cost: drain pump at $150–$450 installed against a $900 replacement is 17–50%.
- The decision: the cost test passes. The lifespan test says the repair needs a reason. The reason is that the repair is cheap — $280 is a bet, not an investment, and the machine has three years of typical life left. Repair.
Example 2: Same machine, failed control board
- Lifespan: 75% used.
- Repair cost: $180–$585 installed against $900 is 20–65%.
- The decision: at the upper end of the repair range, both tests fail. At the lower end, the cost passes but the lifespan test still needs a reason — and a $400 board on a machine at 75% of life isn’t a cheap bet. Lean bin.
Example 3: Five-year-old Miele, same board fault
- Lifespan: Miele typical is 17 years. Five years used is 29%.
- Repair cost: the same $180–$585, but against a Miele replacement at $1,800–$2,500 that’s 7–33%.
- The decision: both tests pass comfortably. Repair, without hesitation.
Same fault, three different machines, three different answers. That’s what the databases are for.
A note on sources
Lifespan figures draw on Consumer Reports member surveys, Association of Home Appliance Manufacturers data, manufacturer service-life publications, and repair-industry parts data. Where sources disagree, the tables give the range rather than picking one.
Repair costs draw on HomeAdvisor, Fixr, Angi, and published service pricing from national repair networks. They’re US figures and they vary by region — a $200 repair in one market is a $350 repair in another for the same fault.
These are estimates, not quotes. The purpose of the databases is to tell you whether a quote you’ve been given is in the normal range, and to give you the number to run through the framework. They’re not a substitute for getting the actual quote.
The figures will date. Repair costs rise, and lifespan figures shift as manufacturing changes. The framework doesn’t — the five rules will apply to whatever the numbers are in ten years’ time. The databases are the inputs; the rules are the durable part.
Apply the numbers
You now have the two inputs the framework needs. The next step is to put them through the five rules:
Should I Repair or Replace It? The Complete Decision Framework →
Or, if you’d rather not work through it manually:
The Repair or Bin Framework Calculator — apply all five rules in thirty seconds →
And if you already know what’s wrong, every fault guide on the site ends with a repair-or-bin verdict specific to that fault:

